Against the backdrop of growing demand for functional skincare, breakthroughs in synthetic biology and supportive national policies, listed Chinese cosmetic enterprises including Proya, Botanee, Bloomage Biotech, Giant Bio, Freda and OnBeauty are intensively investing in independent research, development and registration of new cosmetic raw materials. Shifting focus from formula application to original raw material innovation, these enterprises are striving to break overseas monopolies and build core technological moats for China’s beauty industry.
China has witnessed a boom in new cosmetic raw material registration. In the first four months of 2026, 71 new raw materials were filed, a year‑on‑year increase of 54.3%, with plant‑derived and biotech raw materials dominating R&D priorities. Listed firms have built differentiated R&D layouts:
In the recombinant collagen sector, Hong Kong‑listed Giant Bio has established a molecular library of over 40 human‑homologous recombinant collagens, advancing registration of new collagen materials to strengthen its skin‑repair technology edge. Bloomage Biotech, leveraging the world’s largest synthetic biology pilot platform, independently develops human‑derived recombinant collagen, ergothioneine and retinoyl hyaluronic acid sodium, achieving full‑industrial‑chain self‑reliance in hyaluronic acid and expanding its bio‑active raw material portfolio.
In native plant‑based raw materials, A‑share listed Botanee develops rare Yunnan native plants, registering more than 20 new plant‑derived raw materials such as Prinsepia utilis, Meconopsis racemosa and Ottelia acuminata extracts to support Winona’s sensitive‑skin skincare line. Proya launched China’s first registered patented cyclic peptide raw material for anti‑aging research. Freda and Jahwa explore traditional Chinese herbal ingredients including ginseng, golden ear and artemisia annua, optimizing extraction with AI to develop exclusive plant‑based active materials. OnBeauty self‑develops cyclic hexapeptide‑9 and X‑peptide for anti‑aging. Emerging brands Guyu and Plant Doctor independently develop rare ginsenoside CK, Tuber sinense extract and Dendrobium officinale oligosaccharides, achieving self‑production of core raw materials.
Independent upstream raw material innovation is critical for Chinese brands to escape reliance on imported raw materials and formula homogenization. Previously, high‑end ingredients like pro‑xylane, retinol and premium peptides were long monopolized by foreign suppliers. Now Chinese enterprises realize self‑production of collagen, hyaluronic acid, peptides and native plant raw materials via synthetic biology, precision plant extraction and bio‑fermentation, cutting supply‑chain costs, creating exclusive efficacy labels and boosting brand premium and global competitiveness.
China’s National Medical Products Administration (NMPA) has issued policies to support raw material innovation, optimizing registration procedures and opening priority review channels for native plant and biotech raw materials. Self‑developed new raw materials not only empower domestic product upgrading, but also serve as core strengths for Chinese brands to expand overseas and export raw materials. In the future, new raw material R&D will dominate the next‑phase competition of China’s beauty industry, marking the entry into a high‑quality development era led by independent raw material innovation and advanced technology.
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